Macatho

Valle del Itata, Chile

Imported by José Pastor

Images courtesy of Macatho

From José Pastor:

Agrícola Macatho is the winery project of Macarena del Río and Thomas Payrare, who started making wine together in 2016 near their home in Chillán in Chile’s Itata Valley. Their story embodies the entanglement of France and Chile in one chapter of the history of Chilean natural wine. Maca was born and raised in Chile by a French mother in a household where wine was always a presence; she studied Agronomy in Valparaíso and the Maule valley, then went to France to learn oenology at the prestigious University of Bordeaux. Thomas was born in France and came to Chile while working at a bank; he ended up moving in with Louis-Antoine Luyt, another Frenchman who was then just beginning his path towards making natural wine in Chile. 

A life in wine was never really a question for Macarena, and her studies in France led her to an internship at Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion in 2011 (who hired her partially out of admiration for her audacity: she rode right up to the château on her bike and asked for a position), then consulted with wineries in the south (notably natural wine luminaries Domaine Léonine in Rousillon in 2013) and worked harvest with Yvon Métras in Beaujolais, Patrick Bouju of Domaine La Bohème in Auvergne, and Jean-Christophe Comor of Domaine Les Terres Promises in 2015.
 
Thomas caught an interest in wine from his roommate Louis-Antoine and worked harvests at his projects in Chile while starting his own graphic design business.  Back in France, he also worked a harvest at Domaine Les Terres Promises. Maca and Thomas met during one of these harvests and it wasn’t long before their own project Macatho was born in 2016. Inspired by Luyt’s model of working with small local growers, they rented a little cellar outside Chillán and started reaching out to, then working with, farmers in the Maule and Itata valleys. By paying fair prices for grapes (in a market that deeply undervalues them) and working with these families in their fields, they’re able to encourage their partner growers towards organic and regenerative farming. 
 
Without family vineyards or external funding, this is the only approach to making wine that is viable for Macarena and Thomas, and it also respects and helps sustain the traditional farmers of the area. Itata and Maule have an almost unique viticultural heritage: spared the international pest of Phylloxera, the area’s vines are wholly own-rooted and mostly very old. However, the local demand for these unique grapes is very limited, and the low prices paid by cooperatives and large wine producing companies discourage careful farming and encourage overproduction – or worse, destruction of vineyards and replacement with mono-cultural tree farming or residential plots.

Links to more info about Macatho: